Like its siblings in the burgeoning Jamie’s Italian chain, the Canary Wharf outlet has all the trademark gestures we’ve come to expect from the cheeky one – including funky street styling &
menus sprayed with exclamatory pukka-speak. Expect a well-considered collection of Oliver’s signature post-River Café hits, plus steaks & British puds (including a charmingly oxymoronic
‘Italian Bakewell’). Big, bold flavours are everywhere, from the antipasti served on wooden ‘planks’ to red meat-heavy ‘secondi’. Burgers come with a wallop of fontina cheese, coppa sausage &
crispy onions, while Cornish sardines with spicy Roman cauliflower might be among the day’s specials. The kitchen can also deliver subtlety, as in a delicate truffle tagliatelle. An attractively
priced, all-Italian wine list supports the menu, with plenty by the glass or carafe. Service seems unrattled by the crowds & turnover is fast. Note: no bookings (big parties excepted), so
arrive early.
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