The Brill

Brick by brick, the regeneration of King’s Cross creeps along, & the latest encouraging sign is the arrival of this delightful British bistro. A shiny new penny on a dirty old street, it stands head & shoulders above less salubrious neighbours, with plain, airy surrounds & plenty of attention to detail: tables dressed with proper napkins & sweet little plants. The kitchen delivers simple yet well-executed seasonal dishes (starters £4, mains £12). Begin by savouring the delicate flavours of cured Scottish salmon with a cucumber salad, before getting your teeth around a more robust roast spring chicken breast with wild mushrooms & asparagus, finishing off with apple pie & custard or cinnamon ice cream (£5). There’s more seating in the former cellar downstairs – now a warm, exposed-brick space with its own bar. The next-door takeaway is handy for those on the go.