You might need to negotiate your way through the debris left by the stalls of Chapel Market, but this big, airy gastropub at one end is a worthy destination. Folding doors open up in warm weather, heat from the open kitchen keeps things cosy in winter, & punters tuck into accomplished food at decent prices throughout the year. Seasonality & provenance are important, so in spring you might find wood pigeon & wild-garlic lasagne, or vanilla pannacotta with braised rhubarb. Bread is made here using flour from London’s last remaining mill (in Enfield); smoking, pickling & curing are done in-house, too. There have been reports of slow service, so perhaps it’s best to come when you’ve time to sample the selection of real ales from small UK breweries, or wine from a list that includes a Portuguese house at £15.50, as well as a few choices by the 500ml carafe.
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