‘Beyond divine!’ chimes one disciple of this bubbly restaurant in the vaulted crypt of St Paul’s Cathedral, which styles itself as a crusading representative for our nation’s finest nosh. The kitchen is meticulous when it comes to sourcing, & the lunch menu preaches the gospel for British produce with plenty of zeal: set out with a starter of duck egg, dry-cured ham & spinach, before venturing south for a plate of Sussex lamb rump with garlic purée & creamed leeks. Desserts are no less patriotic – elderflower & rhubarb trifle, for instance – & you can wash it all down with ‘Britain in a glass’ (English sparkling wine with Kentish pear juice). The adjoining café pumps out soups, cakes & sandwiches, & there are afternoon teas for tourists craving a dose of cucumber-sandwich clichés.
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