Got up like a 1950s’ backstreet tattoo parlour, this rollicking rock-and-roll pit is like the wild sister of Sandy from Grease, all trashed biker-chick leather and fishnets. Load up on Lynchburg lemonade and Long Island iced tea, or take a walk on the wild side with spicy noodle (a gin firecracker in a Pot Noodle cup), Jack Daniels-laced bacon, egg and fries, or red snapper served in a baked bean tin. However, not all of head man JJ Goodman’s fancies are as leftfield: purists will relish bee’s knees and aviation, while some ideas work better than others – cheese and pineapple martini beats squid-ink sour, for example. Chow runs to sliders, skewers, fritters, black pudding baps, hush puppies and ‘pints of chips’ with bloody Mary mayo at a venue that is nothing if not consistently entertaining.
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