Mega-restaurateur Arjun Waney pulled out all the stops when he launched Il Baretto, but it seems to have become a victim of its own success, judging by reports. Arranged slightly awkwardly on two floors, it comprises a ‘little bar’ on top with a relatively cramped, terracotta-tiled dining room in the basement below. Those intent on eating pack the place for scrupulously sourced ingredients at reassuringly high prices – various riffs on the carpaccio theme, salads, wood-fired pizzas & prime cuts cooked on the robata grill (perhaps swordfish, spatchcock poussin or veal paillard). Drinks take in modish, Italian-accented cocktails & a sound list of wines from Italy’s major regions. On the downside, a reputation for arrogant service is quickly earned & slowly lost, & feedback suggests that further progress is still required in this department.
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