It might look tiny from the street, where a handful of tables cluster in front of the eponymous ‘little bar', but downstairs Il Baretto has ample space for those who want to see and be seen – complete with terracotta floors, a wood-fired pizza oven and a robata grill. The food is uncomplicated, expensive and plain enough to be adaptable to any dietary whim: carpaccios and tartares make a carb-lite alternative to melanzana alla parmigiana or linguine with lobster, while plain grilled sea bass and devilled poussin run alongside pizzas with uncomplicated, enticing toppings. The ingredients are from the right places and there are enough items of interest – spicy ‘nduja sausage, burrata, porchetta – to elevate matters. Despite a welcoming host with ‘sunshine in her soul', disappointing service remains a bugbear with some readers.
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