This historic Piccadilly dining room never fails to wow Londoners & tourists alike with its ‘fabulous’ baroque-style ceilings, marble columns & luxurious soft furnishings – although the food is well worth a punt, too. The carte offers luxurious starters of beef carpaccio or home-smoked salmon, eel & horseradish mousse, while mains of wild turbot with fennel & courgette salad or duck breast with morels are assembled using fine British produce – with fine prices to match. For something more affordable, take a tip from the theatre crowds & opt for the reasonably priced set menu, with its promise of ham-hock terrine with pickled vegetables followed by enjoyable chicken suprême with crushed potatoes. The Criterion is universally regarded as a ‘beautiful’ restaurant with great potential – a fact not lost on its new owners.
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