Del'Aziz Hampstead

Rather than sticking to its guns & showcasing mezze from the three Ms – Morocco, Middle East & Med – Del’Aziz has become bloated, offering ill-judged fusion dishes (salmon falafel, anyone?), a host of burgers & a range of European puddings & tarts. However, in trying to please everyone, it is merely alienating its one-time fans. Standards across the board have dropped, & while you can’t go far wrong with kefte (spiced lamb meatballs) or slabs of animal protein from the grill, some traditional dishes are slammed for being ‘about as authentic as a supermarket takeaway’. Order carefully & the experience can still be enjoyable, not least because of the vibrant market-style decor & relaxed ambience. Service can be on the slow side, but cocktails get an unexpected thumbs-up.