Dishing up nostalgia in all the right places, Golden Union is a contemporary take on a good, honest chippie. It has a typical takeaway counter at the front, where pies, jumbo sausages & golden pieces of battered fish await selection. Out back, everything’s ‘clean & bright’: a funky café space done out with retro yellow plastic tables & squeezy ketchup bottles shaped like tomatoes. If you’re after fish & chips, you’ll be spoilt for choice, with cod, haddock, plaice, salmon, pollock, scampi & king prawns all on the menu. Mushy peas & tartar sauce are homemade for that just-like-mum-used-to-make touch, & there are plenty of trad extras: gravy, curry sauce, baked beans & pickled onions, preferably not all at the same time. ‘For the most part it does exactly what it says on the tin’, although service can be gruff.
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