The Pembroke

For decades this boozer was the notorious Coleherne, home to moustached clones & the occasional serial killer. Now new owner Realpubs (The Old Dairy, The Oxford, et al) has set about transforming the old pit. The new flock & floral wallpapers are more M&S than S&M, & the only leather now on show is used for the seating. Food is more of a priority, too, & dishes such as pork rillettes with apple purée, sautéed chilli king prawns, pork belly with mash, & stuffed chicken leg are decent enough. For liquid refreshment, there’s a list of moderately priced wines (£13-40) that covers the major growing nations, plus cask ales that might include Deuchars IPA & Timothy Taylor Landlord. Upbeat, focused service deals well with the new mixed crowd.