A much-improved Mayfair Italian, Dolada is currently wowing a newly loyal band of regulars with its honest, recently reformed cooking – so it’s goodbye DIY carbonara, liquid pizzas & risotto in a mug. Culinary thrill-seekers may bemoan the change, but with £29.50 bagging perhaps steak & truffle tartare, a fat, juicy rack of lamb on roasted peppers, then banana pannacotta with yoghurt mousse, it’s no wonder lunch is reckoned to be ‘absolutely perfect’. The glass-fronted basement is hardly striking, but it’s nonetheless secluded & appreciated for its soft acoustics & tables spaced wide enough to allow ‘a perfect dialogue’. Dinner takes on a more intimate tone as the lights dim & prices go up a notch, but the likes of burratina with smoked aubergine or spaghetti with clams & bottarga are still ‘honest value for money’.
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