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Square Meal Review of Dolada ?

A much-improved Mayfair Italian, Dolada is currently wowing a newly loyal band of regulars with its honest, recently reformed cooking – so it’s goodbye DIY carbonara, liquid pizzas & risotto in a mug. Culinary thrill-seekers may bemoan the change, but with £29.50 bagging perhaps steak & truffle tartare, a fat, juicy rack of lamb on roasted peppers, then banana pannacotta with yoghurt mousse, it’s no wonder lunch is reckoned to be ‘absolutely perfect’. The glass-fronted basement is hardly striking, but it’s nonetheless secluded & appreciated for its soft acoustics & tables spaced wide enough to allow ‘a perfect dialogue’. Dinner takes on a more intimate tone as the lights dim & prices go up a notch, but the likes of burratina with smoked aubergine or spaghetti with clams & bottarga are still ‘honest value for money’.

Overall Diner Rating

9.3
Food & Drink
9.3
Service
9.3
Atmosphere
8.8
Value
9.3

Based on 12 ratings. Rate it!

Customer Reviews

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  1. Jack R.
    Reviews: 1

    Jack R. ( Male, United Kingdom )

    5 June 2011

    We were very early after our Show, and we mooched around the neighbourhood, not wanting to appear toooo keen!
    When we finally made it down the stairs, were made to feel most welcome in trhe smart, unaffected dining room. It seemed for a long time that we might be the only diners, though eventually a party of Italians arrived, and I thought “Well, if they're eating here, it must be OK!” And it was. We had the £24.50 menu, and we were made just as welcome. The amuse-gueule was most pleasant. My mountain ham carpaccio starter was ample, and the risotto with pistacchio flavouring, prawna and sweet chilli sauce was excellent, The tiramisu dessert was most impressive. Table service was most efficient and friendly. I didn't consult the wine menu as I was going to have to drive later on, but a couple of “Peroni” beers (well-cooled) were most welcome. I don't know when I'll be up in town again, but I'll certainly consider this elegant, effortless and friendly restaurant a most serious contender for my patronage again.

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
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  2. David Joseph C.
    Gold Reviewer

    David Joseph C. ( 20s, Male, London )

    29 May 2011

    Dolada is an Italian mountain famed for its ski slopes and location between Venice and Cortona and overlooking Santa Croce Lake. It’s also a basement restaurant in Mayfair where chef Riccardo de Pra rustles together enthusiastic Italian creations with an eclectic flair.

    Inside, the staff are warm and welcoming, although a Tuesday evening presents them with little to keep them occupied and I become their sole dinner and concern, at least until the 8pm mark when the room begins to fill to around a quarter of its capacity.

    The room is discreet, windowless and long. It’s deco neat and primed for those business lunches and chic Mayfair ladies. You can pack it full of adjectives but essentially Dolada is fancy pants Italian – ultra-posh and outlandishly expensive. Some dishes I’d have to sell my entire DVD collection just to cover.

    For the most part the menu stays true to its roots and European classics remain with a distinguished twist from Riccardo’s time spend in Japan (Italian and Japanese?). He is quick to note on the website that this is not fusion cooking but “adheres to the traditional Italian taste combined with the ancient Japanese technique and vision.” Such innovative creations are poorly named with only “New” placed in front of favoured Italian dishes: ‘New’ lasagna Bolognese and ‘New’ spaghetti carbonara.

    It’s ‘new’ carbonara because there is no cream and the dish is deconstructed so that yellow-spaghetti, poached egg, crisp home-made pancetta and grated Parmesan sit separately. It’s then the responsibility of the diner to mix the ingredients – I imagine offering them an air of excitement – but at £16 a dish for pasta I want mine cooked, prepared and plated professionally for me. I’m of a lazy nature when dinning out. I pay to be taken care of.

    Riccardo’s parents retain ownership of the restaurant, as with their albergo/ristorante on the slopes of Dolada Mountain, and since 2009 Riccardo has headed the kitchen in London. There are more adventurous dishes than the ‘newbies’, for instance the Gourmet Tasting menu highlights “territorial ingredients which are the basis of the recipes”: Marsala-steamed lobster and French truffle, Lumache gratinate al fiore delle Dolomiti and Potato and boletus millefoglie. They’re exciting concepts, if a little overconceptualised, significantly aimed to galvanize and role in the Mayfair wonga.

    My budget doesn’t lend eye to the Gourmet Tasting, but thankfully the à la carte and set menus have some highlights and each is followed by further extension of the chef’s trio amouche bouche so that my three-course dinner results in six-courses: three ordered and three surprises.

    A simmered chicken egg with shallots and summer truffle strikes a lonely figure on the plate, but is velvety rich and peppery tasting and a rather lovely introduction. Crab Cappuccino follows in the shape of a potato cream and balancing leak foam in a cappuccino cup with crushed black pepper (+ three crab canapés). It’s a bold dish with some interesting flavours and a clever play on the coffee presentation, but there was too much of it for me and the potato cream became a gooey overshadow of the leak and delicate crab accompaniments.

    “Angel hair” pasta with Cromer crab and black truffle was under worked and chucked together ingredients in a soup bowl. Too little crab soon disappeared and left the thin-haired pasta sitting alone in half-a-pint of fish stock, wetting the black truffle – a crime against the expensive shavings.

    A glass of Nebbiolo from Northern Italy softened the blow, as you’d expect from something costing £11 a glass. It has a charming nose of roses and raspberry with hints of spices and is fresh on the palate. Oops, here I go again, “hints of fruity-loopy and scents of a sweet angel’s saliva…” Bla, bla, la-dee-da.

    Plump scoops of home-made coffee, hazelnut and vanilla ice-cream with seasonal fruits were followed by coffee and a painted red block holding posh lolly-sticks of caramelized ‘Fruits of Venice’ which required considerable chomping to crack the hardened sweet before releasing the juices.

    Riccardo briefly appeared from the kitchen and walked over to have a word with the maître’d, on walking back to his heated lair he stopped by and shook my hand, asked me how I was and how I found the meal? The couple next to me gave me a second going over and I could here them whisper trying to place my identity. I wish they’d let me in, I had no idea who Riccardo thought I was either, and this isn’t the first time I’ve been recognized for not being me. I’m actually beginning to become quite good at it. At The Ebury I’m continually asked “How have you been?” and “How is filming going?” Being cared about and attended to is such a privilege. It enlivens your confidence beyond belief, so much so that I don’t want to disappoint and can only respond, “Super-duper, thanks.” The concern is though, does this poor other person ever get mistaken for me?

    • Overall: 7
    • Food & Drink: 8
    • Service: 7
    • Atmosphere: 6
    • Value: 7
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  3. Pietro B.
    Reviews: 1

    Pietro B. ( 30s, Male )

    May 2010

    I celebrated my last birthday at Dolada restaurant where the chef served us a beautiful and delicious cake. the menu selected and prepared for the event was fantastic
    so I could celebrate with close friends in a private room specially prepared

    _Grazie Chef, cooks and staff

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
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  4. JZ

    JZ ( 30s, Male, United Kingdom )

    May 2010

    Great authentic Italian food, including basic but great ingredients in the starters and perfectly cooked mains. Very nice service and private atmosphere.

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 9
    • Value: 10
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  5. Otello C.
    Reviews: 1

    Otello C. ( 30s, Male )

    April 2010

    At Dolada I could eat the best carbonara I've ever tasted.
    The Asparagus flan is fantastic.
    Delicius ice ceram all of their production.
    Is a refind and elegant restaurant where is a great atmosphere
    exelemt value for money.

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
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  6. Franco B.
    Reviews: 1

    Franco B. ( 50s, Female )

    April 2010

    I had lunch yesterday with very important customer to discuss business.
    The business lunch menu was absolutely perfect.
    A nice envoitment that allowed a perfect dialogue with my host that made me compliments for the choice of th e restaurant.

    I thank the Chef and staff of the Dolada restaurant.

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
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  7. Andre G.
    Reviews: 1

    Andre G. ( Over 60, Male )

    April 2010

    after trying the 'sublime cuisine of Dolada restaurant in Italy I could not resist trying the creations of Riccardo De Pra in London.
    entered the Dolada hoping to find a real Italian restaurant I came out enthusiastically.
    superb deconstructed carbonara …
    there is real Italian cousine in London and not 'need to spend a fortune to be enjoyed.

    a wonderful wedding anniversary dinner

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
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  8. Marko C.
    Reviews: 1

    Marko C. ( 50s, Male )

    April 2010

    in the heart of the city a real Italian restaurant with a view of traditional cooking at 360 degrees with a touch of creativity.
    excellent hospitality and professionalism from their staff that welcomes every need with great flexibility '.
    fantastic selection of wines offered with an honest value for money
    even more fantastic tasting menu!

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
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  9. Antonella C.

    Antonella C. ( 30s )

    January 2010

    Great restaurant with authentic italian food. The liquid pizza was an experience and the carbonara was delicious…excellent!

    • Overall: 8
    • Food & Drink: 8
    • Service: 8
    • Atmosphere: 6
    • Value: 9
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  10. R.R.Gill
    Gold Reviewer

    R.R.Gill ( 30s, Male, United Kingdom )

    February 2009

    I have always been a fan of Mosaico (although I thought it suffered a little when previous chef Matteo Mistrorigo moved on) so was very eager to try the recently relaunched Dolada and was not disappointed. A group of friends and I popped down to try a tasting menu put together by chef Riccardo and left very satisfied. Presentation was more interesting than previously with an interesting scampi carpaccio with caviar followed by a delicious lobster risotto. Next was a small warm pot of venison ragu which was so tasty it left me wanting more – perhaps a jam jar size, as it was that good. Luckily for me however the meal continued with an equally great dish of veal cheek with potatoes and veg. Dessert was taken care of with panacotta with pineapple salad which refreshed my taste buds and left me wanting more. The food is complemented by a great wine list to cover most pocket sizes with some great selections at the higher end of the mark. Maître D' Claudio keeps the room moving efficiently and service running smoothly – the restaurant was full when we were dining and service was seamless. I love the way the staff always make you feel like a family friend rather than just another cover and it's so easy to relax and enjoy the evening. Although always being a favourite of mine may make me a little biased, I did see Fay Maschler tucking in the same evening with a smile on her face so I think it's fair to say I wasn't the only one enjoying the food that night. Very happy to say I will continue to be a regular and advise you all to give it a go. Prices are a little above average but worth every penny.

    • Overall: 9
    • Food & Drink: 9
    • Service: 9
    • Atmosphere: 8
    • Value: 8
    7 of 8 people found this review helpful. Was it helpful to you?
     
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Essential Details for Dolada

  • Address: 13 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4HJ
  • Telephone: 020 7409 1011
  • Email: manager@dolada.co.uk
  • Website: Visit Dolada
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 12N-2.30pm Mon-Sat 6.30-10.30pm (Fri-Sat -2am)
  • Capacities: Private room for 24 people

Dolada is included in the following Square Meal Selections

Location of Dolada

Customer Reviews

Been to this restaurant? Write a comment

Write Your Review
  • 1Win fab prizes with free monthly prize draws!
  • 2See your views in print.
  • 3Collect your thoughts in one place.
  • 4Be rewarded with an Editor's Pick.
  • 5Rate restaurants and share your views.

Showing 5 of 10 Reviews

View all Dolada reviews

  1. Jack R.
    Reviews: 1

    Jack R. ( Male, United Kingdom )

    5 June 2011

    We were very early after our Show, and we mooched around the neighbourhood, not wanting to appear toooo keen!
    When we finally made it down the stairs, were made to feel most welcome in trhe smart, unaffected dining room. It seemed for a long time that we might be the only diners, though eventually a party of Italians… More

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
    Was it helpful to you?
     
  2. David Joseph C.
    Gold Reviewer

    David Joseph C. ( 20s, Male, London )

    29 May 2011

    Dolada is an Italian mountain famed for its ski slopes and location between Venice and Cortona and overlooking Santa Croce Lake. It’s also a basement restaurant in Mayfair where chef Riccardo de Pra rustles together enthusiastic Italian creations with an eclectic flair.

    Inside, the staff are warm and welcoming, although a… More

    • Overall: 7
    • Food & Drink: 8
    • Service: 7
    • Atmosphere: 6
    • Value: 7
    Was it helpful to you?
     
  3. Pietro B.
    Reviews: 1

    Pietro B. ( 30s, Male )

    May 2010

    I celebrated my last birthday at Dolada restaurant where the chef served us a beautiful and delicious cake. the menu selected and prepared for the event was fantastic
    so I could celebrate with close friends in a private room specially prepared

    _Grazie Chef, cooks and staff

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
    Was it helpful to you?
     
  4. JZ

    JZ ( 30s, Male, United Kingdom )

    May 2010

    Great authentic Italian food, including basic but great ingredients in the starters and perfectly cooked mains. Very nice service and private atmosphere.

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 9
    • Value: 10
    Was it helpful to you?
     
  5. Otello C.
    Reviews: 1

    Otello C. ( 30s, Male )

    April 2010

    At Dolada I could eat the best carbonara I've ever tasted.
    The Asparagus flan is fantastic.
    Delicius ice ceram all of their production.
    Is a refind and elegant restaurant where is a great atmosphere
    exelemt value for money.

    • Overall: 10
    • Food & Drink: 10
    • Service: 10
    • Atmosphere: 10
    • Value: 10
    Was it helpful to you?
     
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