It may be but a clone of the Parisian original, but this eccentric steak-frites emporium still feels as if it’s on the edge of the 17th arrondissement rather than the heart of London’s Square Mile. Jolly murals of Venetian market scenes, shaded wall sconces, voile half-curtains and waitresses in traditional uniforms create a convincingly retro brasserie vibe, while the celebrated no-choice menu plays it straight: a green salad with walnuts followed by copious quantities of steak with a secret sauce, served in two stages with the second helping kept warm and accompanied by a fresh round of thin-cut frites. After that, choice arrives in the form of some splendid French desserts ranging from raspberry feuilleté to profiteroles. ‘Relais good!’ chirps one wag – just remember that this dependable steak pit stop doesn’t take bookings.
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