Recreating a highly distinctive concept away from its home patch can often spell disaster, but this City clone of the idiosyncratic, Parisian steak-frites veteran has settled into its EC2 location very nicely. Everything about the sweetly old-fashioned setting – from the jolly Venetian murals to the waitresses’ uniforms – echoes the original. So, too, does the food: a no-choice starter of salad with walnuts followed by ‘fistfuls of the best French fries’ & generous slabs of tender, British-sourced steak, offered in two servings with a ‘very special’ secret sauce. Vegetarian hearts are unlikely to flutter at the thought of the ‘cheese & chips’ option, but more will warm to the ‘sinful’ Gallic desserts, which range from textbook crème brûlée to super-calorific chocolate profiteroles. No bookings, so be prepared for queues at peak times.
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