It started with a bang in 2008 and the hype is still justified at Bocca di Lupo – a lip-smacking, ‘drop-dead delicious’ theatreland cracker that continues to work its mojo for the Soho business crowd and cultural types. Statement artworks, tasteful lighting and biscuit-coloured walls keep a low profile, allowing the often simple but ever-changing menu to deliver the thrills. ‘From the first bite of beyond-fresh sea urchin to the last lick of handmade gelato, the kitchen doesn’t put a foot wrong’: try the ‘wonderful’ salad of pomegranate, radish and pecorino with truffle oil, the Roman tripe, chilli and tomato stew (‘a standout’) or pappardelle with punchy hare ragù – regionally annotated peasant food fashioned from ‘great ingredients at their best’. For dessert, the chocolate and marzipan ball with rum-infused raisins is recommended. Tuned-in staff and ‘creative wine recommendations’ by the carafe complete an expressively authentic package.
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