Bocca di Lupo has enjoyed abundant column inches since launching in 2008, and chef/co-proprietor Victor Hugo and Jacob Kenedy's gutsy Italian small plates continue to draw rave reviews. Devotees rate the ‘wonderful ingredients', and the kitchen shows its regional allegiances with a Piedmontese salad of rabbit with tuna sauce, broad beans and capers, skewers of lamb's sweetbreads and artichokes (from Lazio), ‘stunning' Ligurian trofie pasta with cuttlefish, and immense Tuscan tagliata (grilled bone-in sirloin for sharing). Provenance and authenticity are the keys, and Kenedy's passion for Italy also extends to the restaurant's swanky decor and effervescent vibe – although some readers have been underwhelmed by the ‘cramped' space and sharp table-turning. Given the choice, hole up at the marble-topped chef's counter for a post-theatre supper, a glass of Italian regional wine or a hazelnut and cream-laced nightcap.
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