Kitsch and camp, Bob Bob Ricard's vision of unabashed escapism is executed in inimitable style. If the cosily lit, animated dining room feels like an other-worldly stage set, it's because the dazzling interiors – high-backed turquoise booths, gaudily papered walls, mirrored cabinets and a shiny marble bar – are constantly retouched to maintain the illusion of box-fresh bling. The menu, a mix of French, Russian and American classics, is rich in comfort food – from venison tartare generously topped with caviar to crispy veal Holstein with truffle gravy or a lobster burger with Marie Rose sauce. A ping of the ‘priceless' Champagne button heralds staff in salmon-pink uniforms, but don't ignore the wine list, which boasts some fabulous vintages at aggressively low mark-ups – including 1998 Château d'Yquem for £26.75 a glass.
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