Bob Bob Ricard

Lovely evening of great food and fabulous wine. I started with oysters and vintage Bollinger (which is sold by the glass!). For the main we had Beef Wellington – the best piece of fillet I've had in years, may be even ever – and for dessert caramelized oranges for me and creme brulee for my companion with 1996 Chateau Yquem once again offered by the glass at an irresistible £29 per glass. Not bad for the world's finest (and most expensive) sweet wine. Charming staff and a buzzy, glamourous room made the experience practically perfect. If only they could make finding a parking space in Soho on busy night a bit easier.

Buzz and glamour? Classy and exciting? No, no, no!!! Not in this part of Soho. Was everyone away, including the entire bar staff? Was I in the wrong place (that is not a question). What is (not) going on here, in Holiday season? Last night, (a Wednesday) all the happening action had been shunted into the sidings.

I was early, the bar downstairs was closed (no explanation, so I don't know why), and thus I was shown straight to the table for a drink while waiting for my three companions. The decor is more fairground than true glitz, with appropriate music (ie to a fairground), which didn't drown out the deadly hush of empty dullness. The cramped, high-sided ‘railcar booth’ tables are cattle-class rather than first-class in my opinion, and anyone who was over-fond of their food simply wouldn't fit in. The space was constricted enough to feel claustophobic rather than cosy, and paper placemats just ain't luxe. I found it unwelcoming and uncomfortable. And a squeeze too far for four (slim) friends.

The service was fine, the food unmemorable, decent ingredients, cooked ok. Only glitch was when my man wanted chips instead of mashed potato. Po-faced waitress checked with the kitchen and said that wasn't possible (despite entire trainloads of empty tables – can't imagine the kitchen resources were exactly stretched – so more of a “computer-says-no” type of refusal). My man tries a different wheeze “I would like to order the veal holstein WITHOUT mashed potato on the plate, and a side of chips?” – problem solved. A tiny jug of delicious-smelling sauce arrived with the mains: “what is that? who's it for?”. Waitress depositing said jug said “oooh, I'm new, I'll have to ask…”. I saved her the trouble by (rightly) deducing it was veal jus with truffle from the look and smell and hence to go with the holstein – the rest of us were having seafood and fish dishes, so not rocket science to work out.

We drank an indifferent Chablis at an ok price and lots of water, the aforementioned flat atmosphere not conducive to alcoholic bonhomie – or chatting and lingering. it was a big relief to leave, to be honest. Very so-so for Soho.

Maybe our timing was bad: other recent reviews would lead me to understand that we missed a proper sniff of the Real Bob Bob Ricard Experience – but I won't be testing that theory out another day.

This was the second time ive been to BBR – but the first time for an actual meal. Prior to this visit, i did wonder how people would pay such a high price for breakfast and so made the assumption that the rest of the items on the menu would be overpriced too. Anyway, i was wrong and i was very impressed. The venue itself is well designed and reminds me of scenes from Titanic, ie very opulent.

Service was very good and not intrusive in the least. As id been overdoing it a bit in the dining out stakes, i went for the set menu which was 3 courses for £24. Mine comprised of eggs florentine, then burger for main and ended with a lovely raspberry cream pudding.

This, in my opinion, is one of the very good places to go to in Soho – the food is good and nothing strays too far from the norm and its a zillion times better than Hix which is the only style place that could compare. But sometimes thats just what you want, nothing fussy, just a decent tasty meal. Also, to an extent, you get what you pay for so its a little pricier than your normal diner type places, but this is catering to a cool, media, business lunch crowd. I cant really fault the place and will definitely be back. If you want something a bit different, try Nopi which is a few doors down, but for some tasty, hearty, stylish food, this is the place to go.

Last week’s Food Bloggers’ Dinner at Bob Bob Ricard – off Golden Square, Soho – was an excuse to stick my schnoz up in the air more than usual and open the pocket thesaurus along with other equally snooty food writers. Creatives flourish in such company and a “tasty plonk” is instead noted as a “superannuated example of primitive España, long past its juncture.” At least, that’s how I talk in such company (to my own embarrassment).

Bob Bob Ricard was fashioned by its owners Bob and Ricard (actually Leonid and Richard – go figure) and designed by architect and restaurant designer, David Collins. The design is reminiscent of an Orient Express carriage fused with Liberace’s kitchen (possibly not the intention? Maybe this is what Cloud Cuckoo Land looks like?), and has a clean-cut interior with a splash of exuberance. The art deco furnishings are nostalgic of a bygone era and evoke images of a Hercule Poirot murder scene. Vintage children’s tin toys and train sets sit alongside pink and black artworks – rather like a Pink Panther finger painting or punk-styled Rorschach test.

The menu is surprisingly simplistic, offering minor twists of Russian flair to traditional British dishes: caviar with blinis and zakusk canapés is an example. Caviar and champagne is a staple here, perhaps even Bob’s two favourite things in the world? There’s a story about Bob discarding Beluga caviar after a high-society London party. If I told you how, you’d cry. Each table is fitted with a champagne button so it’s literally available when required. Press the button, titled, “Champagne” and a waiter will arrive at your table – dressed in a fitted pink blazer, turquoise for the girls – with glasses of fizz. It’s like they say, the best things in life are…well, about as much as a good bottle of champagne.

Upon arrival we were given the BBR signature drink of pink rhubarb gin and tonic. A welcomed relief after exiting the humming and muggy-evening streets of Soho, and it had a glamorous and sparkling punch. A pre-starter followed of jellied ox tongue with creamed horseradish served with Vodka Imperia by Russian Standard served at -18c. I can’t make up my mind if the jelly was beautiful art on a plate or just a wobbling casing for animal mouth? It’s like that episode of The Office when Gareth says of jelly, “I don’t trust the way it moves.” However you consider it, it tasted damn good and the light creamy horseradish lifted the flavour and melted in the mouth. And that’s from someone who doesn’t even like the stuff. The vodka had an initial sharp texture but developed down the throat with a sweet finish, and is indeed, best served chilled.

Russian salad with black truffles was the starter and lacked the personality of the prior dish. It was again accompanied by chilled vodka: Kauffman Special selected vintage 2006 served at -18c, which is, according to Bob, “the most delicate vodka in the world.” Again, there was sharpness to the nose and texture, with hints of anise, but developing characteristics in the mouth resulting in an overall softer finish, which I’m told is inherent to a honey-based vodka.

The main of veal Holstein was the best dish. There’s Bob Veal from calves that are slaughtered when they are a few days old, up to 150lb, but not sure if this was Bob’s Bob Veal? Buttered breadcrumbs were reminiscent of veal Parmigina and encased the juicy and robust veal and truffled creamy mash potatoes underneath soaked up the surprise of a ‘Secret Sauce’. There was a quail egg on top (for pretty effect) with slithers of salty anchovies to heighten the flavour.

Our wine was a 2008 Rioja Tinto, Bodegas Navajas, and a great match for the veal. It’s a youthful Rioja noted for its intense raspberry and black cherry overlay, but there is also a finishing hint of vanilla oak which sweetens just a little and calms the saltiness of the anchovies.

We had a choice of two desserts and I opted for the lighter Bramley and Cox apple jelly, the prettiest dish of the evening. Served with crème, corrugated apple and deliciously crumbly shortbread, the careful presentation of soft yellows and greens invoked images of Kent countryside and picking apples in woodland. The thinly cut apple slices were positioned in the crème and were sweet and crunchy. Surprisingly, the jelly maintained all the juices from the Bramley and Cox without diluting.

The other dessert option was ‘Chocolate Glory’, consisting of chocolate Jivara mousse and chocolate brownie with passion fruit orange jelly and meringue served with fresh raspberries and hot chocolate sauce. Now there’s a breathless description. It arrives – noticing Gourmet Chick next to me – like a Terry’s Chocolate Orange dusted gold. The waiter then returns to pour hot chocolate over the sphere, which teasingly melts the chocolate and reveals the inner contents of passion fruit jelly and meringue – flawless theatre and downright greedy for those with a sweet tooth.

I wrapped up the evening with a glass of Sauternes (2003 Château Rieussec) that was far too thick and sweet and went down like car oil; however the girls at the table seemed to lap it up with ease. There had been careful balancing of plonk and grub up until now, and this was too candy-coated for me, the syrup and sugar tones buttock-clenching. This said, The Wine Spectator rated it 95/100, so what do I know?

A moral dilemma: is it ethical for a restaurant to include on its wine list the prices that you'd pay at its competitors' pads? Does it make it any easier to take if the person most prodded is Gordon Ramsay?

I know one restauranteur who thinks it is a poor show. Me? I can see both sides: sure, it is nice to know that the Haut Brion is a quarter of the price here than at Marcus Waring, but then the food isn't really a quarter as good, so what does the comparison show? Add to this the fact that none of the wines appear to be cheaper anywhere else (did you check out the Union Cafe Bob?) and a fear that our friendly Bob is merely being mischievous. Now, were he to put the wholesale prices that the wines were bought at, that would be interesting.

And the wine list is very interesting. Along with the said HB (£362 if you must ask) there is a terrific selection by the glass, including the fine Grand-Puy-Ducasse and even the glorious Yquem '96, in both 100cl and a “tasting” size of 50cl. Genius. In fact, why do you need then to put down your fellow restaurants? Man-up Bob; you have a great wine list, don't knock others.

The room itself is, I think, supposed to be reminiscent of grand station cafes from the time of steam trains, sort of up-market American diner, with pink waistcoated boys and turquoise besuited girls. I'm afraid, to me it looked like I'd imagine the waiting room at a high class brothel would.

The menu is all day and mixes French and Russian, with British bits thrown in, so you get caviar and vodka shots, next to onglet, next to cream teas. All a bit confusing, but then Russia and France have a long culinary history; we have, if legend is to be believed, Napoleon's Russian troops in Montmartre to thank for the word “bistro”.

There are nice touches – a button to press for champagne, a plug for the toaster that comes with afternoon tea, that sort of thing. But its all a bit gloomy on a bright summer's afternoon.

The food was perfectly adequate, but didn't really illuminate the gloom. The pickled herring with beetroot was a lovely colourful palate and the potted prawns were perfectly serviceable. This dish started well, with the dressing on the watercress salad being lovely. The prawns themselves came in a creamy, anchovy infused binding, rather than the more traditional clarified butter. Fine as it was, although a bit salty, a sensation heightened by the toast that accompanied it, which was itself highly salted. I know the latest report on whether salt is good for you or not has said go for it, but there is a limit. This went beyond that limit.

Mains too were fine: the chicken Kiev a little let down by not enough garlicky butter (what else is the point of the dish?), but the veal Holstein flat, breaded and with a fried quail's egg mounting it very pleasant indeed.

We skipped deserts and instead spent the money on a thimbleful sized glass of Yquem. A glorious honey marmalade of a wine, that needed nothing plated to accompany it.

So go for the food if you must, but stay for the wine and Bob, come on, tell us how much you paid for them. You tell us how much we have to pay you, so it seems only fair.

This was a breath of fresh air. The service was fantastic, the wine perfect and the food a delight. That doesn't quite cover it. The staff were very welcoming, but they unlike others I could mention (Maze for one) they also understood that we were their to chat, eat and drink, not there for them to attempt to show their waiting capability, which means I hardly noticed them when they sorted out the service. Their recommendations were spot on. The wine and vodka was perfectly delivered and actually really great. Now the food. The menu is something to behold. I was spoilt for choice – a mix of culinary memories and new offerings which made the choice difficult. The Onglet was fantastic, as was the ‘stolen’ chicken kiev. Finishing with a plate of cakes for me, rum barbar and battenburg amongst these just completed a great evening and a fantastic meal.

Would I go back – yes please!!

The burger at Bob Bob Ricard is the reason that exercise exists. Without that, you're lost. Sadly, I appear to be losing… though if I thought that the reward was a guilt free burger at BBR then I'd be spending a lot more time on the rowing machine.

There's a limited menu, mainly classic bistro dishes intermingled with a handful of left field caviar based choices (no doubt a small reminder of home for the Russian owner).

The decor wouldn't be out of place in a top end French railway buffet (assuming that said buffet were decorated with beautiful blue leather seating and staffed by men in salmon pink jackets). The staff were attentive and friendly and while I had to ask twice for the bill, I wasn't exactly in a rush, and could quit happily have sat there all day.
Starting with a sharp yet sweet pink grapefruit mimosa, I eagerly awaited my meat patty fix.
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The burger arrived cooked perfectly as requested, enough fat to make it silky smooth with little pieces of onion studded through. A nice char on the outside contrasted with the soft bun and the Kraft slice melted deep into the pores of the unctuous patty. The sweet pickles were excellent, and the only (very slight) bum note came from the slightly flabby and seemingly unseasonal tomato.

As I polished off the last morsel, a salmon pink jacket dropped off a warm hand bowl and I sat back in my booth. The glamour of Bob Bob Ricard is a contrast with grimy old Soho, but somehow fits in perfectly.

A fantastic wine list with many big-name wines 3-4 times less than in other London restaurants. They make a big deal of it by putting comparison prices directly in their wine list. The vintage Pol Roger was £15 a glass! Our Beef Wellington for four was, in the words of our American guests, epic. Classy service and ambiance, a perfect special occasion restaurant.

Could be great but served me cold food (and the restaurant wasn't that busy). Chocolate Fondent pudding was to die for though, wine by the glass pretty expensive!

Had a great evening at BBR to chase away the early January blues!

Shots of vodka over Russian snacks such as jellied ox tongue, herring, cured pork lard and pelmeni (meat dumplings) got the meal off to a roaring start.

Starters of lobster cocktail (they sub lobster for langoustine whenever they don't have langoustine in stock, which is virtually always!) and a meaty terrine were superb. The beef tea soup looked great too! For mains we enjoyed chicken kiev (the sweetcorn mash served with it was utterly delicious) and pig cheeks braised in port which were so tender and meaty and delicious that I've been dreaming of them ever since. As I have of the apple jelly dessert served with the most buttery shortbread rounds I've seen!

And then there's the decor – flamboyant, kitsch and yet reminiscent of luxurious days long since gone, this is not somewhere for the faint hearted!
Lots of fun!

A good place and open until 3am, which is rare and welcome in the capital. Service is very friendly and professional. The interior is a question of taste, but quirky and gives the place a premium feel. Food is good, while not great but the competition is fast asleep after midnight. Those who travel a lot – or go out partying for that matter will understand.

We first visited in December when it just opened and quite liked it. We have just been back – wow, what a transformation! The atmosphere is amazing – all twinkly and glamorous, millions of little lights and reflections everywhere. The menu is now larger and better organised (we found it confusing and limited on our first visit), the service very proper. Our tomato consomme had such a clean, fresh summer taste that both of us were instantly addicted. My companion's sea trout with caviar sauce was in her words “divine”. And my spicy beanburger was so meaty and moist I had to check twice that I did not get the carnivore's version! Perfectly finished our meal off with a strawberry and cream souffle to share. What a difference ten months make – we will certainly not wait this long for our next visit.

A visit to BBR is like eating in a parallel brasserie universe with questionable taste. The decor is more queasy than quirky – and it discolours the entire experience as you try to settle on some kind of workable explanation for why they chose to make it look the way it does. They've certainly spared no expense and gone to considerable lengths to create a unique environment – but it's unsettling in a David Lynch film kind of way. it's difficult to take the staff seriously looking as laughable as they do in their uniforms – and their attention is too laboured to come anything close to the unobtrusive slickness enjoyed at somewhere like The Wolseley. The menu is baffling as they try to sell you various packaged concepts of meals – we went for tea and it was impossible to simply order a piece of cake. In addition to all this it was absolutely devoid of any buzz or atmosphere. I can't imagine any compelling reason to ever consider going back. A true oddity.

Bob Bob Ricard is odd and I can't make my mind up whether I like it or not. My friend is in love with it and has taken me twice, once for brunch (great) and once for dinner (confusing). I didn't get on with the nursery food meets fine dining menu where macaroni cheese and shepherds pie sit alongside lobster and beef wellington.

It's not cheap, so I'd rather spend that money in a less ‘novelty’ environment and get to grips with a more cohesive menu if I'm paying those prices.

The service is great and it's had a really buzzy atmosphere both times I've been and the room is certainly striking and it does make for a nice change. Take a mixed group of friends for a noisy burger and too many bottles of red and you'll have a great time. Or go for a lazy brunch or tea. Don't take someone without a sense of humour.

Now… Those uniforms… It seems so cruel to put such trained and welcoming staff in those god awful jackets . They look like servants from Daddy Warbuck's mansion in a crap am dram production of Annie.

Last week I was invited by a friend for breakfast at Bob Bob Ricard. I had heard bits and pieces about BBR but didn't really register much – reviews etc seem to show indifference towards the restaurant. So when I experienced the place I was shocked. To start with the interior is amazing (we are talking Cecconi’s, Hakkasan, Wolseley levels of glamour here). The main room is big and sparkling and beautiful (and eccentric) – sort of Orient Express meets west end theatre meets posh American diner. Our ‘booth’ was supremely comfortable – all leather and marble with individual brass lights, call buttons, mini wardrobes and velvet curtains. The menu (delivered by a waiter in pink uniform – why not?) had all the breakfast favourites you would find at a posh English hotel as well as some New York style additions (think pancakes with maple syrup, milkshakes or crispy bacon). I had poached eggs (no taste of vinegar and rich orange yolks), pink grapefruit (sweet, fresh, segmented and served in a pretty pink bowl), toast (sliced bread and toaster – are they nuts?) and an Espresso (fine). My friend’s breakfast (full English – ‘amazing mushrooms’ apparently) was equally high quality. BBR feels classy, eccentric, original. I’m so glad we still get stuff like this in London (hooray). I don't understand how anyone could not like it. I'll be back for dinner.

After reading some reviews on here contradicting the review I read in the Metro a while back , I was dubious about going but I am glad I took the risk to try this place.
We went quite early last Thursday evening so the place was partially empty, we were immediately offered a seat downstairs near the bar, yes it's a bit dark but nice. The waiter was very attentive and we received our drinks quickly alongside the complimentary olives and nuts.
After finishing our drink we were offered to go to our table which we kindly accepted.
The staff were very friendly and not over attentive which was good.
My wife tried the Eggs in Mayo which i guess is a bit basic but they tasted good, I tried the middle white pork belly
dish which was served with the pork and jelly in separate jars which was a nice touch, the pork and jelly on top of the light crouton wafers was excellent and i would definately recommend this!
On to the main course and my wife had a lovely fillet steak on the bone which she loved, and I can vouch it did taste good. I stuck with pork yet again and had the pork cheeks which literally fell apart when you ate them, accompanied with a nice sauce reduction and some creamy mash to finish the dish off.
With desert I played it safe with the trio of ice cream which was nice and being greedy and wanting to try everything had one of the rusk,malteser and gingernut shakes which I was disappointed with, only because I was expecting some sort of lovely thick american malt shake which it wasn't.
Overall though the service and food was great, perhaps its a bit over priced in places and the fact the service charge was included in the bill, not that I had any regret in paying it as it was worth it!

One of the (shared) main courses didn't turn up which was a bit schoolboy. Too many different waiters tending to the table, putting glasses down, taking them back again. Wine glasses laying empty for too long. £21 for 2 lamb chops and a few peas and carrots, not good. Read a review by AA Gill before coming, should have listened to the old fart

I generally only write reviews about places I like but his place was just too much! Had drinks in the bar downstairs on what has got to be the most ill conceived bar fit out I've probably ever seen…David Collins (who I'm generally a fan of) should know better. Has he tried sitting at one of the bar tables? I defy you to get your legs under the table..its just wrong! Call me mad but I actually quite like the idea behind the menu…its all comfort food favourites but needs updating and is overpriced. eggs with mayaonnaise and anchovies were just that…I actually enjoyed them but very dated…in a less designed space at more reaonsable prices the idea could work…depending how deep the owners pockets are I give this place 12 months.

Would probably work in St Tropez!

I want to love BBR. The décor and concept is fantastic. I love anything by David Collins and this one is no exception, especially the downstairs lounge bar which feels exactly like an Orient Express train carriage. The venue creates a great combination of a sense of glamour and fun all at the same time, yet is tremendous value on the food, with burgers at £12 and top mains at £17.

Service was excellent with nice touches like a newspaper immediately provided whilst waiting for other diners. The food was well executed, if a little unexciting. The menu is a strange mish-mash of British staples seemly scattered at random across the menu. I did struggle to find dishes I wanted for dinner.

This restaurant could be so brilliant if they just made a few simple tweaks. My suggestions are:

1. Drop the one menu all day idea. It looks awful and is pointless.
2. Expand the list of traditional starters and mains to give lunch and dinner customers a broader range and to compete on an even footing with the local alternatives
3. Think about sexing up the food a bit. The British staples don’t live up to the glamour of the surroundings
4. Think about how difficult the food can be to eat. As I struggled to find a starter I had to plump for a chicken salad with lentils. It came in a tiny bowl with the chicken on top. As I tried to press down on the chicken with my fork, lentils went all over the place. One for a plate me thinks
5. Lose the pink uniforms. They’re gross

Overall – I highly recommend it. It’s a great place despite my gripes and good for a weekend night out. Your mates will be impressed. Top tip – The gorgeous bar is open to 3am and walk-ins accepted. Better than a private members club.

Gosh – I think the previous review on this restaurant is a little unfair! It's fine not to like a restaurant but I don't think the reviewers criticisms are very constructive…

Anyway, we went for the first time yesterday, we hadn't even heard of the restaurant and just stumbled on it on the Square Meal website.

The decor, the uniforms are all well described by other reviewers I just want to get on to the food!!!

Traditional Sunday roast. How many have you had in the UK that are just awful? In some ways I think it is a very difficult meal for a restaurant to get right. Even if it is cooked well, we all have our quirky ways we like it to be served. I hate to have the food piled on a plate, covered in gravy and a huge Yorkshire pudding on the top. I would rather have two smaller servings – but you can't really ask for that in a restaurant can you? Well yes in BBR you can!

After a plate of beautiful Forman's smoked salmon (the best in the world in my opinion) we both ordered the roast of the day which was beef yesterday but I think it changes. The food is served in what looks like a medium sized frying pan, arranged on it is your beef (cooked how YOU like), caramelised carrots and parsnips, cabbage greens, a yorkshire pudding (huge), roast potatoes, and on the side a dish of horseradish sauce and a jug of gravy. So you can arrange what you want on your plate and then tuck in.

I had asked for my beef to be cut extra thin – which it was, we both have beef cooked differently – which it was, the roast potatoes were absolutely perfect, hot and fluffy on the inside and light and crispy on the outside, all browned beautifully – none of your anaemic roasties here! The Angus beef was so tender you could cut through it with the side of your fork.

We both thoroughly enjoyed our lunch, the service was unhurried which is exactly what we wanted at 2pm on a lazy Sunday afternoon. We took our time and savoured every mouthful, and surprisingly managed to polish every morsel off, along with a bottle of red Rioja.

I wish Square Meal had a Best Sunday Roast category on the site, BBR would definitely be at the top along with the Goring Hotel and Notting Grill, which (and I am constantly looking believe me!), are the only three places in London we have managed to have a great lunch that ticks all the boxes.

The restaurant serves all day, they have a great breakfast menu – but we will have to save that for another day!

This place must have a big PR service to have so many rewiew because everything was terrible from the menu, the room half empty, the waiter who seems to never have seen a bottle of wine before not even speaking about openning it. Its a sad and horrible place and no one should go there.

I had the worst steak of my life here. It was so greasy and appeared to have been re-heated – I really had trouble identifying it, it just did not resemble meat! Let alone a sirloin steak with a price-tag of some £25 (if you include the fries and salad that didn't come with it, a hefty £35!). It came ‘garnished’ with wilted spinach stuck in a very sorry state to the side of the boiling hot plate. I swear you would be served something a lot more appetising in a caf. I took one look at this monstrosity and asked for the bill. We disembarked at the first stop.

The menu is silly – trying to pick a meal I kept coming across cornflakes and eggs done in a multitude of fashions. The dinner options are so limited and the more tempting sounding dishes like Beef Wellington come at a premium and with a minimum number of people per order. Why?

Too much attention to the ridiculous and chintzy train decor (including spangly suit for the poor head waiter).

I'm sure it might be a welcome reprieve to late night revellers in that part of town looking for a burger but if you're out to dinner don't buy a ticket for this trip. It's one hell of a train crash!

A friend and I stumbled upon this place on early on a recent Saturday afternoon and we were intrigued to find such an interesting looking, well fitted out place in the middle of Soho.

First impressions were good – the interior is fitted out in a quality, stylish deco-ish manner, bordering on ostentatious but not vulgar. We were led to a booth by a waiter dressed in a powder pink jacket with peaked lapels. Very Beverley Hills circa 1932. Except this is Soho in 2009, so while a charming unifrom, I wasn't sure if I could take it seriously. Perhaps I wasn't meant to. The place was pretty quiet at the time, but I suspect the ambience is pretty congenial once it gets busier.

The menu has a great looking range of English cafe fare and I opted for Eggs Benedict, which I feel is always a good test of a kitchen – its a simple dish but quite easy to do poorly. My lunch partner opted for Eggs Arlington which is Benedict but with salmon rather than ham. My Benedict was very good – the hollandaise was near perfect and the eggs just the right side of being underdone. My lunch partner's eggs, he said, could have done with another minute – they were too much on the runny side. Passing on wine, we had two bottles of mineral water.

We followed up with cappuccinos and passed on pudding. Service was attentive and smooth, but we didn't try the cute “press for champagne” on the side of our booth. I think that's the sort of thing I'd only use if I were there with my girlfriend, maybe not even then.

The bill for this was just on £50. In my view, not great, but not bad value. I'll certainly be back. If it takes off it might replace the Wolesley as my favourite breakfast venue – but that would be hard.

It is simply difficult to talk about perfection; if at Bob Bob Ricard there had been less thought given to every detail then there would be more to say. Just go and immerse yourself in something that we now imagine things must have been like long long ago, but probably never were.