At first glance, Terroirs might seem like just another French bistro, but once inside this tastefully cosy haunt, ‘you realise you’ve discovered something special… a small piece of France off Trafalgar Square’. A regular hit with diners, its ‘beautifully rustic’ interior sets the tone for a terse daily menu of robust seasonal sharing dishes, knowledgeably sourced charcuterie and impeccably ripe cheeses. Typical choices might include intense Cantabrian anchovies (served simply with slabs of bread, unsalted butter and raw shallot), wickedly fatty duck rillettes, velvet-textured cod brandade topped with a soft-boiled egg, and defiantly Gallic plates such as deep-fried pig’s head – its rich meatiness balanced by bitter leaves and pickled walnuts. The whole place is ‘staffed by enthusiasts’, while the award-winning natural wine list is ‘an absolute joy’, stuffed with undiscovered gems from trailblazing organic and biodynamic growers.
With almost perfect scores for ‘accuracy’ and ‘navigability’, this list was a joy to read – and not just for its clarity. While there were no individual tasting notes, the commentary introducing each section was genius: funny, informative and tremendously engaging. With 20 by the glass, a highlighted Flavour of the Month and a ‘horse’ logo used to highlight ‘wilder wines… be they fizzy, farmy or just plain mental’, this is terrifically imaginative.
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