Madsen

With its all-Nordic team, Danish-designed lamps & Swedish pop music, Madsen really flies the flag for Scandinavia. The dining room’s pared-back interiors & abstract artwork are typical of the region, but there’s an ecologically friendly method to the minimalism – from rugs on the unheated terrace to pine tables bereft of cloths. Danish smørrebrød (open sandwiches) are the daytime offering, while the dinner menu mixes traditional & experimental ideas, from a beautifully presented stack of crisp asparagus with bubbles of salmon roe & parsley sauce (a ‘triumphant appetiser’) to flavoursome slices of wild boar with sweet roasted onions & dinky hasselback potatoes. Desserts ignore national borders, moving from homespun wild-berry mousse right down to Italy for apple & amaretti trifle. Shots of chilled akvavit, nifty cocktails & esoteric native beers ramp up the Nordic vibe.