Madsen

It’s ‘a bit like Ikea with decent food’, quips one reader about Madsen, though anyone coming to this cool, clean-cut yet relaxed dining room hoping for cutting-edge Scandinavian cuisine (all the rage in foodie circles) is likely to be disappointed. There’s no great innovation, but instead you’ll find satisfying platefuls of homespun dishes – everything from the obligatory home-marinated herrings to tender, flavour-packed frikadeller. At lunch there’s a range of ‘smushi’: pared-down versions of Denmark’s archetypal open sandwiches, topped with egg & tomato, ox tongue with horseradish & pickled beetroot, & yet more marinated herrings (perhaps perked up by curry or dill). The wine list is unexceptional, so it’s worth investigating the Nordic beers, especially one brewed with walnuts. Prices are eminently reasonable & attentive service comes with a huge, heartfelt smile.