Landseer British Kitchen at The Bloomsbury Hotel

Like so many mid-market hotel restaurants, the thorn in Landseer’s side is its lack of va-va-voom. An above-average offering from the kitchen is let down by switched-off staff & dull, play-it-safe basement surroundings. Still, if you’re here on one of the many dining offers (pre-theatre, say), you can certainly eat well for the money: choose from an upmarket British selection that might open with a warm salad of Bosworth Ash goats’ cheese, beetroot & spinach, before roast Gressingham duck breast with a sticky plum & prune compote or an equally meaty option such as 28-day-aged Perthshire beef in a variety of cuts & sizes, served with chunky chips & a tomato coulis. At full price, however, the bill can add up, while the absence of natural light is disconcerting.