Billed as a ‘pleasure-seeking gastrodome’, House of Wolf is a three-storey affair offering two bars and all manner of zany hipster events from vaudeville to literary salons. Pitched up in the ‘attic’, the cosy, good-looking dining room does away with the notion of a permanent ‘named’ chef in favour of monthly guest residencies. Foodie frontier-pushers might sit down to an experimental dinner dreamed up by artists, a seasonal supper cooked by maestros of the pop-up scene, or some other weird and wonderful offering. On our visit, the food seemed to exist simply to reinforce an artistic message: cutlery was replaced by an array of pseudo-scientific props, and the dishes on offer – whisky-infused salmon sashimi and tender venison with roasted vegetables – tasted relatively plain. That said, House of Wolf is fun, clever and a handy conversational ice-breaker.
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