Avista has its own street entrance at the Millennium on Grosvenor Square, but the contemporary greige interiors & bright spotlights still give a hint of ‘morbid’ hotel dining room – even though the food tells a different story. Ex-Zafferano chef Michele Granziera knows his way round Italy’s regional cuisine & ‘rarely overcomplicates things’, according to one reader. Expect inoffensive classics done well – vitello tonnato (with British rose veal) & lobster tagliarini are both A-list renditions; also expect a smattering of innovation – say a showboating duck dish involving pan-seared breast, confit leg & offal on toast. Desserts flit between traditional tiramisu & more far-flung creations such as a light confection of pineapple carpaccio & mojito granita. Service is generally snappy, & the wine list remains wholly patriotic. Stay with the set menu if you’re on a budget.
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