‘From the outside it looks like a normal pub, but inside is some of the best food in London,’ claims a devotee. Certainly, there’s little to fault here. Led by a crack team – from enthusiastic bar staff to sure-fire chefs who are as diligent with their sourcing as their saucing – this woody, rustically styled hostelry has been catapulted into the major league. Don’t feel short-changed by the brief menu: every dish bursts with flavour, whether the delicate simplicity of spicy tomato & goats’ cheese terrine, or the robust haunch of venison with celeriac purée & roasted beetroot. Sunday lunches (rib of Dedham Vale beef with Yorkshires, roasties & fiery horseradish) are among the best around, while inventive bar snacks earn extra plaudits. Who can resist Colchester rock oysters or crispy pig’s ears? Wines are judiciously chosen, there’s a refreshing selection of lager & ale, & everything’s keenly priced.
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