One of the Chinatown new wave, Baozi Inn produces real regional cuisine in faux-rustic, designer surroundings. The country-inn style may be cute, but the Lilliputian wooden stools are uncomfortable
for long stretches. Never mind: you might not get the chance to linger. The cheap food comes as & when it’s ready – even before the drinks, on occasion. The kitsch illustrated menu of Beijing
& Szechuan street food is brief & clear, with specials & spice levels clearly flagged up. Generally, the quality of cooking is ‘very high’, with spice levels ‘just hot enough to be
considered Szechuan cuisine’. The eponymous baozi (pillowy steamed buns stuffed with savoury pork mince) & crescent dumplings in chilli oil are triumphs. Noodle dishes, however, can be ‘a
fraction too soft’, & seem low on meat – even at their modest price. Service varies from ‘pushy’ & monosyllabic to an effusive, ‘all smiles’ performance.
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