Moodily dramatic lighting works its considerable magic over this animated & boisterous converted Edwardian banking hall, picking out the pebbled textures behind the ‘beautiful’ long bar & breathing life into its dark, imperial vastness. There’s no fuddy-duddy Raj nostalgia about the kitchen’s ‘innovative’ seasonal efforts, which might yield vibrant watermelon & feta salad with coriander dressing or crispy soft-shell crab with charred chilli relish ahead of ‘absolutely heavenly’ mains such as pan-seared sea bass with tomato & lemon sauce, sautéed beans & shrimp kedgeree or creative veggie offerings like stir-fried okra & mushrooms with yoghurt sauce. Set menus keep a lid on prices, & the wine list embraces affordable quaffing as well as City prestige, from £22 house recommendations to a 1998 Château Latour at a cool £550. ‘Great cocktails’, too.
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