The Modern Pantry
| Address: | 47-48 St John's Square, London EC1V 4JJ | |
|---|---|---|
| Tel: | 020 7553 9210 | |
| Email: | enquiries@themodernpantry.co.uk | |
| Website: | Visit The Modern Pantry website | |
| Price: £40.00 | Wine: £13.50 | Champagne: £50.00 |
| Opening Hours: | Mon-Sat 8am-11pm (Sat 9am- ) Sun 10am-10pm | |
Review of The Modern Pantry:
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Anna Hansen is renowned (along with fellow Kiwi chef Peter Gordon) for her trailblazing fusion food at The Sugar Club & The Providores. Now she’s running her own show – a deli, café & dining room furnished in cool grey tones within two listed Georgian buildings. The café garners much praise, ‘perfect for a quick, light lunch’, but the first-floor restaurant has received a mixed response. On our visit, only one dish shone: sugar-cured prawn omelette with spring onions & smoked chilli sambal – a show-stopping kaleidoscope of flavours. Seared king scallops with squid ink risotto & roast garlic aïoli was pleasant enough, but poached rhubarb & goats’ curd crème brûlée didn’t improve on the original. There’s an appealing homeliness to the set-up, but the best bet is to graze on small plates in the café (perhaps halibut, passion fruit & coconut ceviche, or black-bean & chocolate bruschetta), accompanied by cheap-as-chips Argentinian fizz.
Wine List: Laid out by style, this is a fine, compact list with a global range to match the eclectic food. It is sensibly priced, most bottles under £30, but there’s also a small fine wine section with equally restrained margins. An ample choice by the glass & carafe aids wine & food matching. BEST BUY WHITE 2007 Cullen Margaret River White, Margaret River, Western Australia, £25. BEST BUY RED 2007 Freisa d’Asti, Borgogno, Piedmont, Italy, £23.
The Modern Pantry Location:
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