You might expect a Mayfair restaurant named after an exclusive brand of Venetian glassware to sparkle with urbane cool, and Michelin-starred queen bee Angela Hartnett's very own domain doesn't disappoint – although it might be ‘better for a date than your mum's birthday'. Sculpted chandeliers, arty frescoed panels and subdued lighting give the beige-tinted room a ‘grown-up' feel – a suitable backdrop to some highly contemporary Italian food refracted through a Kentish woman's eyes. Hartnett works wonders with pasta, adding real delicacy to the likes of tagliatelle with braised oxtail and wild garlic or linguine with razor clams, chilli and artichokes. To follow, monkfish is invigoratingly served with beautifully sourced crab, avocado, asparagus and bitter orange, while desserts such as chocolate ganache with ‘heavenly' chestnut parfait and mint draw a rapturous response. ‘Lovely, polite service' gets top marks, too, and the provision of ‘extra courses' makes it even more special. Terroir-driven French and Italian treasures loom large on the knowledgeable, organically inclined wine list.
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