Angela Hartnett, the Gordon Ramsay protégée known to many from her Guardian column & her judging appearances on Great British Menu, oozes charisma. It’s in her recipes & her verdicts, but
most of all, it’s in her cooking. Murano (the Mayfair restaurant she purchased from Ramsay in 2010) may be all ‘muted pastels’ & muted voices, but the warm, generous, passionate nonna’s girl is
there on the plate. Book-ending a meal with two readers’ favourites is strongly recommended: to start, ‘rich, sweet, smooth’ pumpkin tortelli with sage butter & crushed amaretti; to finish, a
‘voluptuous’ pistachio soufflé with hot chocolate sauce. In between, make it sea bass with razor clams & lardo or Cumbrian beef with gratinated truffle macaroni. Vegetarians get a dedicated
menu, while those not as ‘fat of wallet’ as Murano’s typical guests can enjoy a set lunch for £30. ‘Wobbly’ service remains a sticking point.
WINE LIST: Sommelier Marc-Andréa Lévy & his assistant Bastien Ferreri are focused on Italian & southern French wines, most of which are biodynamic if not organic. Although the list
has obviously been put together with care, the choice below £50 is rather limited, if you don’t want to drink just from the south west of France. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Domaine les
Aphillanthes, Hélène & Daniel Boulle, Clementia Blanc, Côtes du Rhône, France, £40. BEST BUY RED 2009 Domaine Causse Marine, Patrice Lescarret, Gaillac Peyrouzelles, South West France,
£40.
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