Norman Foster’s monochrome design creates a pared-down backdrop that’s as chic as the ‘great modern Italian food’ emerging from Manicomio’s kitchen. The cooking takes its cue from the Slow Food movement, placing the emphasis firmly on provenance & seasonality. For the full effect, ascend to the glassy first-floor restaurant where the likes of char-grilled squid with peas, spring onions & ‘nduja sausage or braised hake with samphire & borlotti beans await. The Italian-led wine list includes some budget options alongside the more expensive stuff, but there’s nothing too stratospheric. Those who complain that Manicomio is ‘overpriced’ should consider the ground-floor café/bar, which serves a simpler lunch menu in more informal surrounds. The modest little terrace is a secret pleasure, screened from the street by a dark monolith down which a sheet of water dribbles softly.
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