In a part of the capital where restaurants are more often buried underground, the look-at-me assertiveness of Manicomio’s Norman Foster-designed glass box is a joy to behold. Sister to the Chelsea
original, this City incarnation is a more sober affair – but highly versatile with it, incorporating an informal street-level café & takeaway, a smart first-floor dining room & the clubbier
confines of the Roundhouse bar on the top floor. The kitchen sources many of its raw ingredients from Italy, & the food is commendably gutsy. Start with a vibrant Sicilian fish soup, or perhaps
expertly grilled cuttlefish, before sampling rabbit ravioli in a wonderfully lemony, buttery spring onion sauce. Don’t miss the light, oozing focaccia with good olive oil for dipping along the way.
Desserts maintain the high standard, while the wine list makes room for some unusual bottles.
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