L'Anima

One of a rare breed, this slick, high-gloss City restaurant manages to transcend its setting & entice as an evening destination. It’s a seriously handsome piece of work – a drab ground floor transformed into a phenomenal light-filled space with natural materials used to striking effect. The man in charge is hot talent Francesco Mazzei (ex-St Alban) & visitors may recognise some of his trademark culinary touches including a knockout, re-invented dish of beef tagliata with bone marrow & mash. To start, a heap of white crab meat flecked with dill sits pretty alongside a mound of mashed avocado, while desserts run to a softly sweet rhubarb tart. L'Anima is Italian for ‘the soul’, but this place trades ethereal whimsy for ravishing earthly luxury, all aided & abetted by charming, formally attired staff & very fair prices. The compact wine list cherry-picks the best from Italy.

Wine List: An excellent, compact list dominated by the wines of Italy. The first five pages move from north to south, cherry-picking the best from this diverse country. A fine wine section caters for those wanting to indulge, while a dozen by the glass or carafe are available for those on working lunches. Best Buy White Pinot Bianco 2006, Alois Lageder, Alto Adige, Italy, £26. Best Buy Red Costa della Sesia Nebbiolo 2005, Travaglini, Piedmont, Italy, £33