Brasserie St Jacques

Famous as the original home of Pétrus, this St James’s site now houses a new comme il faut French brasserie from Claudio Pulze (Via Condotti, The Beehive). It’s a welcome development that brings some appealing breeziness to the neighbourhood with its custard yellow walls & paper-topped tables. The menu touts all the classics – terrine de foie gras, steak tartare, entrecôte with béarnaise – alongside daily specials with strong regional accents (choucroute Alsacienne, say). A St John-esque starter of bone marrow had six nuggets accompanied by toasted sourdough & a nicely sharp salad of parsley & gherkin. Mains were good too – in particular, skate wing served with a buttery chorizo potato cake that added gentle oomph. To finish, a quivering crème caramel & île flottante, floating as majestically as an iceberg, were both excellent. Wines also flaunt their Gallic regional colours, though only the Loire and Languedoc offer much below £30.