The Botanist is a breath of sophisticated air for the Chelsea denizens who cram its chic spaces from morn to night. British produce is given a serious namecheck, and ‘clean' seasonal dishes such as Norfolk asparagus with a poached egg and hollandaise, confit shoulder of Herdwick lamb with glazed sweetbreads and baby turnips, or grilled native lobster with garlic and tarragon butter are as fashionably coutured as those devouring them – although the ‘classic British' knickerbocker glory may be a calorie-count too far. Off-white leather banquettes, stripped oak floors and botanical art provide a suitably swish backdrop, but service can struggle with the sheer numbers piling in throughout the day. Even so, the rammed bar is worth braving for its huge wine list and ‘just divine' Champagne cocktails.
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