Part of the burgeoning Cubitt House group (The Thomas Cubitt, The Orange, et al), the Pantechnicon’s ground-floor bar is home to a constant stream of business folk, local families & friends looking for a catch-up. The clubby atmosphere – properly distressed buff-leather chairs, washed-out walls, leaded windows & old-fashioned glass lights – extends to the upstairs dining room, which serves excellent steaks & a roster of puffed-up gastropub staples such as smoked-ham-hock terrine with piccalilli & toasted sourdough or rare-breed pork chop with crushed new potatoes, savoy cabbage & cherry jus, plus organic roasts on Sundays. ‘Astounding’ puds such as a fig tart with gingerbread ice cream are a big talking point here – ‘even if you just go for dessert, just go!’ urges one reader. In all, this is ‘good honest food without the steep price tag’.
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