Alan Yau’s budget noodle bar may not be the steal it once was, but this ‘Chinese Wagamama’ in Kingly Court still serves ‘good food at reasonable prices in a trendy atmosphere’, attracting queues of shoppers and ‘funky Soho professionals’ at peak times. Inside, burning incense and rows of long communal tables set the scene, with an open kitchen adding to the bustle. The pace is fast and dishes tend to arrive in no particular order: even so, it’s worth trying crisp-fried calamari, the ever-popular ho fun noodles or shareable small plates such as Peking duck spring rolls. Alternatively, look to seasonal specials such as oxtail noodle soup crammed with fragrant South-East Asian herbs or peppery beef and avocado with crisp-fried vermicelli. Not everyone buys into the concept, but it still appeals to the young at heart.
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