Hix Oyster & Chop House

Celeb chefs are everywhere these days, but the favourite chef of celebrities themselves has managed to keep a low profile. Now Mark Hix (formerly of Caprice Holdings) has jumped ship, opening his first solo venture round the corner from Smithfield Market. There are echoes of nearby St John in the décor, & the menu shows the same affection for simple British cooking – although here’s it more gentle in spirit. Deep-fried skate knobs are served with a piquant caper mayonnaise, while fresh peas & a smear of English mustard accompany rabbit brawn. To follow, authentically breadcrumbed lamb cutlets Reform deservedly merit the revival of a Victorian classic; likewise a gooey Bakewell ‘pudding’ with clotted cream. Sadly, service lets the side down – a pity, because other details are spot-on: roast chicken carved tableside; solid cutlery fit for John Bull; a wine list featuring warm reds from hot places, plus some quirky British beers.