The Conduit Of Tybourne

Replacing Irish institution The O’Conor Don, this independently owned gaff is a curious mishmash. The decor mixes Marie Antoinette’s boudoir, cloth-cap pub and bachelor loft as conceived by the crew from Changing Rooms. A decent choice of beer includes Pilsner Urquell, Paulaner and Bitburger on tap, while wines range from £13 to £30, including 10 by the glass. To eat, a gamey Brit menu is served in the upstairs dining room, while bar snacks include rich rustic terrines, pâtés and deep-filled sandwiches such as wild boar and rocket. There’s also a basement gin/cocktail bar. Perfunctory service, sadly, needs to be fine-tuned to cut it in genteel Marylebone.