What lies beyond an innocuous-looking door is a tiny drinking den gussied up to look like a Bratislava bar circa From Russia with Love. Detractors complain about service as frosty as that film’s sour-faced baddie, Rosa Klebb; decide for yourself. To gain entry, call ahead to secure ‘an appointment’ (casual walk-ins are not encouraged); then ditch that Next suit & backpack, respect the owner’s diktats & you’ll discover some well-crafted & realistically priced drinks of distinction. Expect to pay around £8 for any of the arcane quaffs on the cocktail lists, which are cunningly concealed in old novels – note the owner’s house specials made from all manner of infused hooch lining the back bar. Bohemia is one for serious cocktail fans & design purists – the Jägerbomb brigade simply won’t get it.
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