Ostensibly shunning publicity, this compact Soviet-style pit, located behind an anonymous door next to an unremarkable newsagent's, sets its cap at the design cognoscenti who appreciate quality quaffs purveyed in 50s' avant-garde surroundings – imagine a front parlour owned by Bond baddie Rosa Klebb. Book an ‘appointment' to gain entrance and guarantee table service for the sort of ‘Cold War' cocktails that could have thawed out Khrushchev and Kennedy in a jiffy. There's no collateral damage, either, as a £20 note will easily secure all manner of precision flavour bombs – although taster menus and some of the spirit-based molecular mixes such as white-chocolate truffle are expensive. Be warned: suits are frowned on – so dress down for the occasion.
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