The Loft Restaurant

Conceived by the duo behind Brixton DJ bar Plan B, The Loft is a notable addition to the Clapham drinking and dining scene. It looks great – exposed breezeblocks and concrete columns add edginess to the interior’s dark leather seating and glossy wooden floors – and there’s a long list of cocktails, mixed with serious intent. The modern European menu also aims high, but with less sure-footed results. To start, plaice goujons coated in a lacy batter are served with a punchy tartare sauce, while bitter endive and apple salad cuts through the richness of braised oxtail perfectly. But although main courses show careful sourcing – fresh line-caught sea bass fillets or plump chorizo sausages – pedestrian accompaniments such as a bland saffron mash let them down, while a dessert of pear, almond and honey tart lacks punch. A party atmosphere that’s perfect for large groups goes some way to compensate.