L'Absinthe

Taking over a site that has seen several restaurants crash and burn takes some guts, but L’Absinthe’s owner, Jean-Christophe Slowik, has made a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, filling the two-tiered space with Primrose Hillbillies night after night. Slowik worked front of house for Marco Pierre White for some 20 years and clearly has an affinity for the role, lending a personal (and slightly eccentric) charm to the place. Sadly, the kitchen is not as adept and the French bistro cooking hits both highs and lows. Leek vinaigrette with poached egg was a splendidly simple opener, but a nicely marbled steak béarnaise main course arrived with cold and unsalted chips. Pan-fried salmon with spinach and beurre blanc was fine but came served with a burnt piece of puff pastry. On noticing this, however, Slowik put dessert – a lovely, caramelly tarte tatin – on the house. If the kitchen raises its game, L’Absinthe should achieve the balanced formula of a long-standing local: great service, good-value wine… and reliable food.