The Kudu Collective has launched its youngest sibling yet – Little Kudu – a South African-inspired tapas and wine bar under the arches of Queen’s Road Peckham station. It’s tiny inside, as one would imagine a tapas bar to be, and insanely beautiful, with terracotta brick walls, a floor-to-ceiling wine cabinet, and a Murano glass chandelier hanging from above. It also somehow manages to pack in a central island counter, a couple of high tables with stool seats, and an open kitchen where an all-female brigade of chefs busily tinker away.
We, however, visit on a warm August evening and end up sitting on its lovely outdoor terrace. Drinks arrive not long after that: we try the Kudu Spritz, a bitter-sweet take on an Aperol with notes of grapefruit and elderflower. There’s also a short but considered South African wine list that focuses largely on reds and whites.
Onto the food, and we suggest you begin with the Little Kudu loaf, a light brioche served with a pool of melted Cape Malay butter, which is intensely flavourful and heady with spice. Things progress with smoky, charred leeks served with a smooth cod’s roe dip and herb oil, while braaibroodjie – a South African take on a cheese toastie – layers sweet tomato chutney and dusty Baron Bigod brie on crisp, chewy sourdough. From the larger plates, beautiful pink ribbons of flat iron steak come with paprika-heavy chips and velvety red peppers. This symphony of dishes comes to a crescendo with dessert, an intensely fudgy chocolate torte with zesty kalamansi cream. We'd describe the texture as sort-of cooked, and we’re told that the chefs half bake the batter, leave it to solidify in the fridge, then take it out hours before service to allow it to go soft and gooey. Genius.
To surmise: Kudu has gone and done it again. We finish our meal with the indisputable feeling that we will be returning in the very near future. Is there no stopping them?