Kachori

Even on a Tuesday night, Kachori is pulsing with the hum of a happy crowd. Word has gotten out that an ex-Gymkhana chef has made his way from Mayfair into an altogether more accessible neighbourhood, and south Londoners aren’t going to sleep on the news.

It’s tucked away behind the station, looking onto a pleasant strip of parkland, and while the frontage is unassuming with its neat terrace and brick facade, the interiors are a world away from SE1. Golden velvet banquettes, buff plaster walls and swagged muslin canopies envelop diners in a serene regal scene that feels cosy and comfortable, accentuated by warm service.

An opening dish of the restaurant’s namesake, kachori, is the size of a mini football and yields with a theatrical explosive quality. It’s overflowing with colourful accessories like sweet potato, pomegranate and tamarind. It’s fun, but it’s also sugary and sticky and on the edge of becoming cloying for anyone who doesn’t possess a sweet tooth. A boned guinea fowl leg is more satiating with a blackened crust of rich, peppery spices encasing the delicate meat.

In fact, it’s this deft use of spices that threads everything together. Later there’s a goat curry in a heady gravy layered up with tumeric, cloves and crispy curry leaves. The meat is perfectly slow cooked to just maintain its integrity, holding its shape but falling apart without much objection. It’s savoury and comforting; a big hug of a bowl and the perfect thing to mop up with chewy chunks of naan bread. Even the rice is flavoured with onion and cumin and the dessert, too, is an enlivened mango kulfi, spiked with cardamom.

Prices aren’t cheap - £13 and northwards for small bowls of sharing curries - but with premium ingredients and an experienced chef at the helm, they’re probably expected now in London. For those looking to experience the interiors and atmosphere for less, there’s a great snack selection (including naan chips and dips), plus a very comfortable lounge area where you can experience the bar team’s accomplished cocktails for an hour or two.

Kachori is an Indian restaurant in Elephant and Castle's Elephant Park development, with a menu overseen by former Benares and Gymkhana executive chef Brinder Narula. Narula explores a wide range of regional Indian cooking at Kachori, delving into authentic dishes from Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh and Delhi, whilst also venturing into the subcontinent with his wide-spectrum flavours. Although the cooking at Kachori takes a broad approach to Indian cooking, the menu is particularly focused on flavours from the north of the country. 

Inside, a chequerboard floor contrasts with lime wash walls and mustard-yellow velvet banquettes. Draped linen awnings hang lazily over the tables, and outside there's a spacious 36-seat terrace - a perfect sunny spot to enjoy a drink or a weekend lunch. There's plenty of room indoors too, with space for 96 among the tables and banquettes.

The menu is broken down into small and large plates, as well as a range of dishes that come straight from the tandoor or the grill. Small plates include tarkari and onion bhajis with tamarind sauce, samosa chaat and corn ribs with masala hummus, as well as the bikaneri raj kachori - a blend of puffed lentils and wheat filled with sprouted moong, sweet potatoes, and yogurt. Big plates feature everything from mouth-watering curries to biryanis, lamb keema burgers and tandoori chicken or lamb chops.

Kachori's careful attention to detail shines through in breads and sundries too, which are all made in the restaurant. They also adapt their menu to the seasons, offering refreshing dishes like a smoked chicken salad with puffed millet and watermelon radish during warmer months.

To complement your feast, Kachori boasts an extensive drink and wine list that includes signature cocktails like the tandoori sour, made with tandoor-infused whisky, lime juice, jaggery syrup and amaretto.