With its polished interiors, tightly choreographed service, and high-end Cantonese menus, Yauatcha City bears all the hallmarks of the Tao Group playbook. Primely placed within the foodie hub of Broadgate Circle, it remains a firm favourite amongst the well-heeled City crowds, even a decade after its launch.
By day, we imagine that the sweeping glass facade floods the space with natural light, but by night Yauatcha provides a front row seat to the bright lights and bustle of the circle below. The seamlessly ending dining room is low lit, a curved window that follows the contours of the building, anchored by a bar and open kitchen. Tables are closely packed, spotlit against a moody backdrop, with waves of guests keeping a constant buzz throughout the evening.
Dumplings are the main attraction and, frankly, a non-negotiable when it comes to ordering. Drunken chicken and prawn wontons are incredibly moreish; plump parcels arrive swimming in a deeply rich sesame sauce and topped with cashews, peanuts and a healthy scatter of sesame seeds. Cheung fun may look understated at first glance, but the fatty chunks of honey-roasted pork encased in silky rice noodle rolls are a standout. They're served with a flourish, doused in soy and sliced at the table, providing the perfect balance of sweetness against the salinity.
A duck salad brings a touch more theatre to the evening. Crispy chunks of meat are shredded tableside, mixed through with salad leaves, and the sweet, citrussy bursts of pomelo wedges and pomegranate seeds that help cut through the intensity.
Not every detail lands perfectly. A seasonal Spicy Apricot Margarita promises heat but arrives topped with an unexpected cream that muddles the drinks balance. A Lychee Ginger Collins, however, is bright and well-judged, a pleasingly refreshing combination of gin and ginger that hits the mark.
A meal here could quickly become expensive, especially after multiple rounds of dim sum. But with its confident cooking and lively atmosphere, Yauatcha remains a delightfully dependable spot in the city.