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Square Meal Review of Van Zeller ?

Originally set up with backing from London entrepreneur David Moore (of Pied à Terre and L’Autre Pied fame), Tom Van Zeller’s self-named restaurant occupies an oddly shaped dining room with close-packed tables – although the low-key vibe and the food more than make amends for the rather awkward layout. Intricacy and clever detailing are the kitchen’s trademarks – from scallop ceviche with curry, turnip and pomegranate or smoked hen’s egg with wild garlic, morels and pine nut pesto to salmon with bacon jam, avocado and watercress or Goosnargh chicken accompanied by cep gnocchi, black pudding, apricot and muesli. Dazzling desserts also pull some novel ideas out of the bag, perhaps fennel doughnuts with mascarpone, lemongrass and blackcurrant. Prices are sometimes rather hard to swallow, but bargain lunches are eminently digestible and there are some excellent food-matching selections on the well-considered wine list.


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