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As part of the Brinkley’s group, this Marylebone venue’s USP is its egalitarian and wallet-friendly approach to wine – although the Union Café is also a creditable all-round package for eating and socialising. The mood is gregarious and animated, while the breezy decor (pine tables, exposed ducting, Venetian blinds, new wooden floor) provides a neutral backdrop for a please-all menu that collects flavours from all over the gastronomic planet: “getting people fed” is the kitchen’s primary concern. Starters of deep-fried Brie, lobster linguine or tuna tataki could give way to Toulouse sausages with horseradish mash, Moroccan chicken breast with couscous or spinach and Ricotta raviolini. Steaks and healthy options receive good notices, while desserts go straight for the pleasure points. “Classy service” gets the nod, and staff know their stuff when it comes to the well-rounded, great-value wine list.
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