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Square Meal Review of Toasted ?

A spin-off from Brawn and Soif -both small-plate eateries focusing on natural wine – this softly lit restaurant and wine shop has upped the ante on foodie Lordship Lane. Toasted is a friendly, buzzing operation with four stainless-steel tanks at its heart, which bring wine direct from growers to thirsty customers. The no-middle-man approach keeps a glass of Rhône red down to a wallet-friendly £3.50. The daily changing menu covers everything from simple charcuterie and cheeses to cheffy creations such as a delicate poached brill, with braised mooli, chickweed and celery velouté, or an appealing meat-free dish of salt-baked potato, grapes, curd and marjoram. An impressive roll call of fashionable ingredients, from turnip leaves to pickled rosehip, signals the kitchen’s intent. Some dishes nudge £20 at dinner, but breakfasts of homemade granola, and lunchtime specials such as quail with lentils, escarole and fresh sausage for £10 allow for more casual dining.

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