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Squaremeal Review of Toasted ?

“A taste of Bordeaux, via East Dulwich”, this spin-off from Terroirs and Soif unravels across shabby-chic floorboards, with soft lights, a bar and open kitchen plus a “ramshackle room next-door that’s home to four jumbo wine vats”. Toasted’s mission is to bring ‘natural’ tipples direct from growers to thirsty customers, who appreciate the no-middle-man approach, wallet-friendly prices and sound advice from the “incredibly helpful, knowledgeable staff”. The daily menu covers everything from simple charcuterie, “luscious” duck rillettes and artisan cheeses to cheffy creations such as “slippery, translucent ceviche”, flash-cooked squid served with “obscenely rich” oxtail ragù or Label Rouge chicken with Romana courgettes. An impressive roll call of “bizarre new ingredients” signals the kitchen’s intent, and there are “many moments of brilliance” (as well as the odd misfire). Meanwhile, breakfasts of “generously slathered” avocado on sourdough, and £10 lunchtime specials such as slow-braised lamb belly and polenta chips with a glass of wine keep things casual.  “A welcome addition to Lordship Lane’s epicurean arsenal.”

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