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“Come for the romance”, advises a fan of the Witchery – and we wouldn’t argue with that. Occupying a prime site just off the Royal Mile, this gloriously gothic 16th-century building is renowned for its genuinely archaic and extravagantly baronial decor – a riot of elaborate tapestries, luxurious drapes, statues and cherubs, plus an enchanting Secret Garden reached via stone staircase. The kitchen covers all bases, and it isn’t afraid of big Franco/Scottish flavours: oysters Rockefeller, steak tartare or jambonette of rabbit with prune purée and pickled fennel salad could precede lamb Wellington, haggis with neeps ‘n’ tatties or a trendy combo of roast Cairngorm venison with black quinoa, iron bark pumpkin and pickled pear. If you still have room, indulge in the mini pudding selection (chocolate tart, Opéra gâteau, coconut crème brûlée, trifle, ices). You can also soak up the Witchery experience without paying top whack, by taking advantage of the two-course lunch and theatre menu; either way, it’s worth splashing some extra cash on the extraordinary wine list – a huge all-embracing tome stuffed with treasures from around the globe.

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