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Set in a row of Flemish weavers’ cottages, The West House isn’t short on genuine Kentish character. The dining room may play up ‘Ye Olde English’ look with its weathered beams, open fire and bare floorboards, but smart, sympathetic restyling has added some easy-on-the-eye modern touches. It’s an unstuffy platform for chef/patron Graham Garrett’s confident, fine-tuned cooking, which is also reckoned to be “reasonably priced for a Michelin-starred restaurant”. His highly accomplished repertoire of wallet-friendly, crisply scripted dishes is driven by imaginative sourcing and the results are “consistently brilliant”: consider eclectic ideas such as smoked cod’s roe with spring vegetables, anchovy dressing and sourdough croûtons, a Spanish-themed plate of chorizo-roast loin of rabbit with squid rillettes, pepper sauce and wild garlic croquetas or a ‘mojito’ rum baba with mint sorbet, lime curd and granita. Top-notch ‘natural’ wines by the glass or carafe are much appreciated.
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