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We reckon that Shaun Hill deserves a round of applause for putting The Walnut Tree back on the Michelin-starred map and regaining its loyal following as a Welsh icon serving honest, intelligent food in refreshingly unfussy surroundings (beams, local artwork, rustic furnishings, Farrow & Ball colour schemes etc). Cracking set lunches are a real bargain, while the equally good-value carte could yield anything from twice-baked Lancashire cheese soufflé with beetroot or red mullet and scallop bourride to veal kidney and black pudding with Marsala sauce or skate with brown shrimps, parsley, capers and lemon. Cleverly realised British and European flavours also collide on the pudding list – think gooseberry custard crumble, summer pudding or peach and cherry tart with kirsch sabayon. And if cheese is your preference, look for the board loaded with ripe delicacies from the Pyrenees. The location in the foothills of the Black Mountains is very special and the whole place regularly resounds with chat and laughter – there’s even the bonus of bookable cottage accommodation nearby. “A great restaurant – always has been, always will be”, concluded one regular.
Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2015 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in May and June 2015. Thousands of readers and bloggers took part and the results were moderated by the Square Meal editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The survey does not ask for or include any restaurants in London. Click here for a full list of Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.
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