The Truscott Arms

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Square Meal Review of The Truscott Arms ?

In an area of Maida Vale needing fresh blood, theatre producer Andrew Fishwick and his wife have worked wonders by transforming the once-knackered Truscott Arms into a charming gastropub. Occupying a sympathetically restored five-storey Victorian building, the place announces itself with a light ground-floor bar dispensing London-brewed draught ales, American craft beers and a decent cocktail selection – think Earl Grey martini. Meanwhile, the first-floor dining room deals in simple Brit grub assembled from top-notch ingredients – witness a perfectly balanced starter of Hansen & Lydersen smoked salmon with cucumber and dill. To follow, foie gras burgers go down a storm, although plates of creamy cod with seaweed butter, cockles and violet artichokes are equally memorable. After polishing off, say, tonka bean pannacotta with strawberries, wander upstairs and check out the exhibitions by young UK artists in two private rooms.

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  1. Most people recommended The Truscott Arms, and one person in particular – Sam – told me about a thing they sold called beef shin chips. Beef – good, chips – good, shin… um, good…? So I went to The Truscott to see what the heck all the hype was about.

    I got there alone and had to wait for my companion (because he is always. running. late.) so ordered a nice, healthy (massive) glass of red. I instantly regretted this after Andrew arrived (late) and ordered some kind of macho cocktail called a Lady Truscott. It was bloody yummy and I was jealous...
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  1. As we walk up to the pub, there is a little three-piece combo playing outside and the aftermath of a wedding party on the ground floor. Lots of relentlessly middle-class types braying and blocking the route to the staircase leading to the restaurant. C’s face spurs me on to sharp-elbow my way through.
    An oasis of calm awaits on the first floor of this bright large Victorian pub. The décor is quirky/traditional and they have clearly been to a decent lighting supplier as they have those Ingo Maurer wall lights, the ones that look like a light bulb surrounded by angel wings. Tip: if there are four of you, ask for...
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