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Named after one of London's most influential master builders, this perfectly proportioned Regency townhouse is the kingpin of a group that also includes The Orange and The Alfred Tennyson. Downstairs is always busy, whether the full-height glass doors are flung open in the summer or a blazing fire is combating the winter chill. Scotch eggs, burgers and home-smoked duck breast with cherries keep the wolf from the door in the bar, but things move up a gear in the well-proportioned first-floor dining room. Book ahead if you fancy sampling gussied-up British fare along the lines of seared yellowfin tuna with English mustard dressing, black radish and cucumber or beef fillet with braised brisket, bone-marrow mash and nasturtiums. Seasonal desserts such as elderflower and crème fraîche tart with gooseberries hit the target, and Sunday roasts are "pretty much flawless" too.
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