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Square Meal Review of The Tapster ?

Surprisingly located in the basement of a modern, smoked-glass office block, this murky, subterranean branch of the Davy’s wine bar chain retains its ‘olde-worlde’ charm thanks to rickety private snugs (known as ‘offices’), flickering candles on old wooden tables and racks of dusty wine bottles lining the walls. In contrast to the antiquated British mood, the menu brings some Spanish sunshine to Buckingham Gate with sharing boards of hand-carved Ibérico ham, chorizo and salchichon matched by some inviting Iberian wines and sherries. Otherwise, the kitchen deals in familiar wine-bar grub such as dressed pear and Stilton salad, slow-cooked lamb shank or Cornish fish stew with saffron aïoli. Doom Bar and Whitstable Bay Ale fly the flag for British brewing, while the remainder of the attractively priced wine list lines up familiar French names alongside some fruity New World numbers.


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