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Square Meal Review of The Star Inn ?

It’s been “running for years”, but this famous Yorkshire gastropub-cum-restaurant is shining brightly once again, having regained its Michelin red gong in 2015 after a period in the doldrums. Since arriving here, chef/proprietor Andrew Pern has turned the gorgeous 14th-century thatched hostelry into a repository for “amazing” seasonal produce from Yorkshire and beyond. Fish and game always play a part – as in grilled wild sea bass with baked Jersey royals, morels, turnips, wild garlic and parsley velouté or local roe deer cooked over charcoal with honey-roast fig, date purée and wilted cavolo nero. There are simpler ideas too, including a famous fish ‘pye’ and potted chicken ‘drummers’, while dessert might bring dark chocolate and liquorice fondant with poached ‘goosegogs’ or something as simple as Yorkshire rhubarb with custard. The heart of the place is still the bar, where you can eat without booking amid ‘Mouseman’ oak furniture, brass ornaments and touches of tartan; otherwise take advantage of the sheltered front terrace and garden. Note that accommodation is across the road in Cross House Lodge.

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Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2015 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in May and June 2015. Thousands of readers and bloggers took part and the results were moderated by the Square Meal editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The survey does not ask for or include any restaurants in London. Click here for a full list of Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.


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