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Squaremeal Review of The Square ?

After 25 years holding the reins, Phil Howard has left this haute cuisine thoroughbred and The Square has been bought by Marlon Abela, whose stable of pedigree restaurants includes The Greenhouse and Umu. Abela has installed Japanese-born Yu Sugimoto as executive chef, who arrives after heading the kitchens at two stellar establishments in France (Le Meurice in Paris and L’Espérance in Burgundy). Anglo-French food, executed to a rarefied level, remains the métier, though chef Yu has expanded the à la carte from three to four courses and diners can expect a ‘clean, sophisticated and precise’ cooking style. The seasonally pertinent menu might commence with marinated langoustine sandwich with mushroom, apple and coral mayonnaise, and continue with sugar-spiced foie gras with dates, pumpkin and Earl Grey tea, before a main course of roast turbot with squid, baby carrots and chicken jus. Tasting menus could incorporate signature dishes such as St Ives Bay lobster with Muscat grapes or red mullet wrapped in fennel branches. To finish, try one of the signature soufflés, perhaps Lorraine Mirabelle plum soufflé with caramelised oat ice cream. The trustworthy wine list, heady with great producers, has been expanded still further of late, and the quiet, civilised dining room is “ideal for business”, with staff gliding seamlessly between the widely spaced tables. All of this comes at a price of course, but the prix-fixe lunches don’t stint on the luxury – though the atmosphere is much better in the evening. In short, The Square remains “a seriously good dining experience”.

Former Wine List of the Year Sommelier's Award Finalist

An incredibly well-put-together list. The Champagne selection is a delight, but the real highlight is Burgundy, with a section divided by different domaines as well as appellations. A good place to treat yourself.


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  1. Published :

    Quiet eating :: The Square Restaurant | Quiet eating

    On the last day of my holiday I decided to save the most interesting for last. The Square. I was last here several years ago and left not very impressed to be honest. All my friends have implored me to give it another chance, so I decided that I would try. Maybe they had an off day.

    Off to a good start. What a pretty plate! Not square though and it has lots of circles. With a restaurant with this name, I almost expected a plate in the shape of it’s namesake. Maybe the name “the square” was a reference to “square” meals, I thought. Hmmm....
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Yu Sugimoto

Chef Yu Sugimoto The Square restaurant Mayfair London Squaremeal Square Meal
Yu Sugimoto’s career has been studded with experience at fantastic restaurants across the globe. After starting out in Paris, he then joined the two-Michelin-starred kitchen of Jean-Pierre Crouzil at Hôtel l’Ecrin in Plancoët. After a short tenure at O Rebelle back in Paris, Sugimoto was hired by Patrick Jeffroy at the Hotel de Carantec in Brittany. In 2006 Sugimoto fulfilled a lifelong dream when he joined the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Meurice under famed chef Yannick Alléno, where he worked as head chef for six years. When Alléno left Le Meurice in 2013, Sugimoto took over the kitchen (before Alain Ducasse’s appointment in 2014) and was integral to the transition under the new management. In 2014 Sugimoto left to become chef de cuisine L’Espérance in Saint-Père, which was awarded two Michelin stars. In 2016, Sugimoto was appointed executive chef at The Square, following the departure of Phil Howard.

Essential Details for The Square

  • Cuisine: French
  • Area: Mayfair Oxford Street
  • Price: £105
  • Wine: £35
  • Champagne: £85
  • Lunch: £40/65 (3/6 courses)
  • Dinner: £105 (4 courses)
  • Private Dining: 18

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Private Dining at The Square

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Private Room Capacity
Room for 18 people 18

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