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Square Meal Review of The Sign of The Don ?

The Don’s informal offshoot nods to the Iberian heritage of the Sandeman port company (to which the site has historic links) by offering “elegant” Spanish and Portuguese-influenced food in its basement bistro. Punchy flavours define the starters, so we enjoy savouring the likes of Jabugo ham, salt-cod and mushroom croquetas, or grilled octopus with chorizo and chickpeas. Hake with baby gem, tomato and salsa verde might follow, or a hearty Dingley Dell pork rib-eye with butter beans and smoked paprika. The conversion of the former Swithin’s premises, in co-operation with English Heritage, was clearly a labour of love: ancient wine vats are upcycled into banquettes, and the iron bands of wine barrels have been reworked as sculpture. The long wine list – also available in the ground-floor bar – includes 10 sherries and 19 ports, plus some premium New World bottles alongside prestigious Bordeaux and Burgundy.


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